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Sunday, 29 June 2008

Your Sunday Sermon: The Mysteries of Rock Climbing

The mysteries of rock climbing are akin to the great mysteries of the universe: where does matter come from? Is time travel possible and what the hell is up with the Bermuda Triangle? In rock climbing there are many grey areas which need researching. One example: one nondescript day a climber turns up to his local crag which he has been to many times before. After warming up he feels pretty strong (nothing unusual here). He soon realises that this is no normal day on the crag, he really is crushing juice out of the holds. After beasting everything he is content, he has gone up another level. His training has paid off. The climber goes home, maybe even has a rest day. On his next climbing day he returns to crush his hardest project. But hang on a minute everything feels hard again, he‘s not locking off Jack daniels with such ease. What the fuck is goin on? Maybe he climbs better second day on or maybe he wamed up differently on that strong day. The reality of the situation is that the climbers strong day was just that, he doesn’t reach this level again despite continued pulling down. How is this so? Surely strength is strength, you’ve either got it at a certain time or you ain’t. The tendons do not weaken overnight, how has this happened? The truth is that freak days are one of the mysteries of rock climbing and we may never know what causes them or why the strength leaves us! What is important is to take advantage of the freak days by crushing our projects into oblivion. Do not leave the crag on these days until your tips are bleeding.

Saturday, 28 June 2008

Pics n stuff

Neil J on Blood,Sugar, Sex Magic

Neil J on the Flying Finish

Lady Cassidy on my route the Flowstone Shuffle

Greg C and Mike drove down to the box today from Lancaster, i was impressed, they obviously know quality. Anyway we had a stirling sesh. Greg did Mr Whippy, Whisky Bitch, Pill Box Original, The Greek, Jack Daniels, Last Orders and the 2nd? ascent of Last Rites. Greg used a different hold on the top of this but we didn't reckon it made the problem much easier. I was happy to crush Last Rites again - gave me much needed confidence for my project link. Still struggling to get past the defences of The Malteser at the mo (shit bastard!)

Monday, 23 June 2008

Landman hits Wales!

yes the young globetrotter hs currently taken up residence at the Cattell household. he's keen to acquaint himself with some of the hardest problems in North Wales. Last week he despatched Compact Culture up at sheep pen thinking 8a+ was appropriate. Ty also came close to repeating Louis Armstrong in the Cave, everyone seems to think this is 8b so lets see if Ty agrees. Hopefully he will cos we all know Danny's a fuckin monster.

I had a pretty good 3 days, climbing in the Cave and on the box a bit trying to get stronger again. Have also got an exciting project, watch this space!

Sunday, 22 June 2008

Your Sunday Sermon: The Reverend Moon

This week's Sermon comes from a very special guest: Reverend Benedict Moon. In a quote from the great works: The Power of Climbing, Reverend Moon makes clear why rock climbing is a very important pursuit for him:

"It is my reason for living. It is from climbing i draw my inspiration for life; it is my direction, ever onwards; the movement; the striving to always go one better than before; the challenge both physical and mental; searching for that little bit more power, stamina and mental control; the bringing together of all three for that supreme effort."

These words should be an inspiration to us all, the Reverend Moon's passion for the sport he's loves is clear. Although not everybody's sole direction is rock climbing it is important to feel passionately about something in life. Reverend Moon has proved that age is no barrier by making his hardest ascent at the age of 40- a superb effort.

Sunday, 15 June 2008


This weekends climbing was a bit better on the physche and strength front. Saturday went to Angel Bay for a bit with Danny, Mule and Matt. We started off on the left wall where we tried Papa Big Lunch 7c. Mule and Dan did it with what i think was an incorrect sequence - was actually harder though this way. I did ok almost did the crux, always was unsure of this line but its actually quite good, very burl! Did some 7as that i did years ago the Limpet and Jonesy Locker. It gets flack but its actually an alright crag in good nick. Went to the Orme next where i did a bit in the Cave, usual shite. Saw Panton, Liam Desroy, Bonjoy and Andy Banks - sheffield raiders. Andy did well doing Louey and Trigger in same sesh a la Nige.
Sunday went back to Orme with Matt, had a nice seshs on the box, reckon i can nail my little project link there soon, will be very nice. Back to Lancaster now, happy climbing you lucky bastards who don't have jobs!

Your Sunday Sermon: Doing Time

I have been working inside the prison walls for six weeks now. Although i have desensitized to the prison environment it is still a harsh place where many men are incarcerated for breaking the laws of the land. One may think that prison is a place where the scurge of society end up but in reality all of us are not to far away from one of these institutions. How many of us have sent a text message whilst driving a motor vehicle! Run someone over doing this and there is only one place your heading! The courts aren't interested in what a nice person you are for crimes of this nature. Another scenario: your mate is getting a drunken beating on a night out, you go over to help,clobber the attacker in his temple, he goes down like a sack of spuds and your sent down for manslaughter/murder. What i'm trying to get across is that many a spontaneous act could end you up in the nick where you will be tortured by the sound of Sinead O Connor and beef stew (its true!). So concentrate and keep yourself out of trouble my children or you could find yourself behind bars.

Friday, 13 June 2008

Bear Sighting

Katzy's stag

Last weekend was Katzy's stag- a right good do, well organised by the best man Mr Steve Sinfield. We stayed in the middle of nowhere up in the north lakes in a youth hostel type place. Hombres from all over descended to see Mark off. Sat morning we went go carting, what fun! I was shit (12th out of 19th) but had a ball. Hock was shit hot, he kicked ass! Then we went into Carlisle and Katz was made to don a pretty dress:

Then we headed to the Turkish baths and Katz was made to don a very stylish green mancini:

That night we headed into Keswick and to the infamous Loft - it was log. Next day me and Nige went to Bowderstone- very nice. I tussled with Impropa, couldn't do 2nd move unfortunately. So that were that, a few more days closer to the grave.

Sunday, 8 June 2008

Your Sunday Sermon: The GREAT Orme

Llandudno's Great Orme is a magical place. It is a rock climbers paradise combining as it does many options for bouldering, sport climbing and trad. I have been visiting the crag for the best part of ten years and many of my happiest and hardest climbing moments have been had on it walls and overhangs. It has all; whether your clipping up 7a's down LPT or fiddling in dodgy wires on the upper drive or throwing hardcore shapes in the cave of justice there is enough climbing here to last anyone a significant amount of time. The true quest for those who love this crag is to graduate to Ormesmanship and claiming your place in the Ormesman country club along with Tony, Mel, Norman etc...This is one of my greatest ambitions. In terms of hard climbing this place is extremely significant sporting a couple of the hardest boulder problems and one of the hardest routes in the UK. The Big Link of Parisellas remains unrepeated and weighs in at a tough Font 8b+, howvever if stamina isn't your bag and your prefer something shorter head to Pill Box Wall and see if you can pull onto the Gaskins problems (somewhere around the 8b/8b+ mark). This illustrates the diversity of this crag. Many styles of climbing are catered for. If hard sport climbing is your bag wghy not try for the fourth ascent of Liquid Amber, hard 8c and apparently one of the finest sport routes in the country. If this is too easy there is always Neil Carson's unrepeated Big Bang, 9a and absurdly thin at the top. A true Orme legend. And yes there are a few projects dotted around most notably in Parisellas where font 8c-9a link ups await the globe trotting super star. This place has quality climbing in abundance and is the jewel in the North Wales crown. So hence forth to the Orme- she will reward you in rich climbing experiences and many happy memories.God bless!

Friday, 6 June 2008

This w'end

This weekend i shall be partaking in Katzys stag do in the Lakes, i 'm really looking forward to tying him to a lamppost in Keswick and giving him a good rimming!

Sunday, 1 June 2008

Your Sunday Sermon: Rock Climbing- A Way of Life

Rock climbing is a special sport. It can become so all-consumming it can penetrate every part of your life. I have not come across any other sport which infiltrates an individuals existence in this way. For those addicted to rock climbing it is not just a sport or a hobby it is indeed a way of life. The whole culture of climbing and the small but closeknit global community of climbers makes this sport unique. In the book The Power of Climbing the legend Ben Moon explains how climbing has become an obsession and dominates all aspects of his life. It is a never ending spiral - the prospect of going one better and improving is a great motivational factor. There aren't many other sports in which individuals would sacrifice their quality of living by going on the dole just to excel and improve. In the 80's and 90's this was commonplace in climbing. Climbing is so diverse and this widens its appeal. Whether your bouldering at some shithole or climbing trad by the sea or clipping bolts up 30meters of spanish cliff we are all driven by a love of moving over rock. Climbing takes you to beautiful places all over the world that you would never visit as a non climber. From the texan desert to the Himalayas, to the remote countryside of Spain or France climbing gives you the opportunity to see these places and experience the real cultures of these areas. So get out there and find out what you enjoy about climbing, if your not addicted yet i'm sure its just around the corner!


Went back down to Seaview Crag with Mule and Danny, we did two new V6's, very good:

Later in the night me,alf and dan hit the bouly!