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Sunday, 26 July 2009

Zeke the Freak

Friday i went down LPT with Pete, Rachel and the Muledawg. I actually got some decent redpoints in on Pas de Deux, i felt more solid on the moves but still didn't quite manage the link. Pete did some good links on LA. Mule is looking good on the Walking Mussel but he's off to Ceuse next week to get pumped. Next day i headed to Rubicon on a day hit to meet Lincoln. I was keen for Zeke again so tried to get there relatively early. The drive was two hours, Lincoln was waiting in his Audi TT, flash bastard!. I was soon through the crux on a early redpoint but i was still learning the route and cocked it up. I got through the crux again only to cock it up again and then on my 5th redpoint after the good conditions had long gone i managed to scrape my way to the top - a proper pulling out the bag type affair! Mule turned up and managed it 2nd RP, we thought soft 8b probably was applicable. A classic route more importantly and one that i'd always wanted to do. Interestingly Pas de deux feels harder than Zeke to me. Part of me thinks it would be a shame to upgrade it but the other half thinks well if its 8b give it that grade. Time will tell!
I went bouldering today and Huffy confirmed i have a slightly tweaked pulley. Its not stopping me at the mo but i must be careful.

Monday, 20 July 2009


my training focus at work has shifted this week.i have been deadhanging for 5 weeks now.i personally think that this is enough and that it could be dangerous to continue the same regime.i can feel in my fingers that the time has come to lay off the small edge. they feel ready for a break.tonight i started to work on my arms.pascal has set up the beastmaker on the A frame so i started doing one armers on the best two slots. doing them one at a time i did ten on my left and eight on my right with each arm getting probably a 6 minute rest between goes. i was most pleased with how strong my right arm felt as i usually struggle to lock off on it.then i did some assisted one armers on the bar,good for when your a bit powered weight has dropped to 11.3 which is helping a lot.i m in great shape strength wise,just a shame i m stuck in work during the week.i m sure my time will come.....had an interesting time in a dingy with inspector yesterday,glad i went to swìmming lessons when i was younger!

Sunday, 12 July 2009

Peak Hit

The orme was shut for a triathlon on sunday so i thought i'd go to the peak to climb and visit some folk. I stopped in at Raven Tor on saturday, conditions not great. Kristian Klemmow was finishing off the mecca repair job, we spoke about the ormes for a bit and various projects which was interesting. Andy Harris and Dobbin were lurking by pinches wall. It was smeggy but i thought i'd do a bit of bouldering. I tried Staminaband again, this was my first 8a from a while back so i was interested to see how it would feel after not having climbed on it for years. I did one or two of the moves then had a blast and fell getting the famous pinch on powerband. Was interesting comparing this problem which is a benchmark 8a, F8b+ to the thing i did on the box the day before, another level springs to mind. Went back to sheff and socialised a bit and stayed at Nige's. Next day i went to Rubicon early to meet rascal and pickled gherkin. Those boys were on Caviar but i was keen for Zeke. Have had probably two days on this when i lived in sheff once doing the moves. Conditions were ok. I did the moves quicktime and had a go from the ground. Fell off, then realised i needed to work it a bit more so i sussed my beta properly. Next two goes i got to the crux press to the dish but fell just shy of getting it, felt like i could of done it so was pleased. Stopped there cos i didn't want to go through a tip. I will defo be coming back for this, its a cool route. Felt quite easy for an 8b but this could just be because it suits me, i like those crimpy holds with bits for your thumb! Good effort to whoever rebolted it too. Pickles did Caviar (guys on a roll!). Then i went home, back to the deadhang regime tomorrow!
Finally i would like to take this opportunity to beg Keith Bradbury never to compete again, i've seen enough train wrecks!


Pascal on caviar

Some kind of gay ritual

Good to see the bear making a speedy recovery!

Friday, 10 July 2009

Jack the Drunk

In 2007 i completed a traverse on Pill Box Wall called Drink Driving. Today it received its first repeat from myself, i also added a harder start to create a new link up. Drink Driving started up a font 7a, my new link starts up a tough Font 7b/7b+ called Jack Daniels Connection. It then joins Drink Driving and follows it to the end. Drink Driving i think is soft Font 8a+/hard French 8b+. Jack the Drunk is mid Font 8a+/French 8c and thus the hardest bit of climbing i've ever done. Not a major new line but a personal milestone. I probably worked up to this ascent over 50 or 60 days. Today i felt slim, the hard climbing felt ok but i nearly fell on the V5 finish when my arms melted!.The good news is that the big Pill box link up is still to go and this will be very nails, sustained to the max.
View some pics of original Drink driving here:

Tuesday, 7 July 2009

A day of Nearly's

Today was the first decent day of conditions i have experienced for about a month. It was cool on the orme and there was a nice breeze. My plan was to warm up in the cave then move onto the box but in the end i thought i'd take advantage of the conditions so tried Halfway House, Nodder showed up and once again suggested that i try his kneebar for the move into the undercut. I did and it worked! Bonus. I went from the start and found myself at the shothole, but cocked it up. Then i did the same thing again, balls! Oh well progress, i think the grade of this problem is soft 8a with the kneebars. Then i had a go of my other cave project, Broken Heart/Sams Finish. Felt quite pumped but managed to fall off the last move again. On the box i fell off the last hard move of my project again. After a quick trip home to refuel i headed back to the orme to meet up with the LPT crowd. Pete is looking good on LA, he can basically do it in 2 halfs now. Jim did Statement. I checked out the Carson direct finish to Bad Boy again, Pas de Deux. I have never managed to get a decent sequence on this before but today i kind of worked it out. The two bolts after leaving BB are hard Font 7b+ or 7c, quite fingery. I managed all the moves apart from the very last one to good holds. Quite keen for this now. i think its probably 8b and not 8a+. Certainly comparable to other 8bs i've tried. Something else to do down there!

Sunday, 5 July 2009

Round 5

It seems there is no sign of a let up with this mingin weather. Hot and sweaty! Yesterday i planned to go down LPT but was put off by sweaty temps and persistent showers. Instead i had a burn on the Box, jesus i felt strong, managed to lock to the pinch and get the intermediate but was losing friction on the hold for the crucial cross under, i fell. Then i headed to the Mill with the siurana team, i've certainly gone up a slight notch recently, climbing is essentially about improving for me and attaining levels that seemed a million miles away. Theres more work to be done but i think i'm on the right track, just need some time off work and some good conditions and i think i could climb some things. Simpson dismayed me as usual, i mean this guy has not done done any significant levels of bouldering for 3/4 years yet his base level is silly. He managed Rockatrocity first go and was strong in the Mill, so impressive.I suppose i forget just what a beast he was during his training period.

Anyway i'm gonna keep doing what i'm doing, deadhanging, bouldering on the board and hopefully lose another six pounds (but no more!).

Day 5 on Liquid Ambar today and i'd be lying if i said i wasn't expecting some breakthroughs. Feeling strong and confident i hoped to string a few moves together. I pulled up to the first hard section keen to see how it felt. I pissed the 2nd hard move, total stat man papy. I always hold the black crimp in a different place so i worked out the best position finally, i reached up totally static holding it on top. Then i tried to get my foot up and fell. This was awkward i needed to work something out, so i did a few more foot moves and it was fine. After a bit of a breather i had linked this first hard boulder problem in a oner, font 7b+ or 7c, i screamed, get in. It felt steady. Next i did the slap and just about managed the very hard match after it. I certainly had gone up a notch. The top moves felt steady too, bring on the linkage!

Awesome Mawson finally ticked Melancholie and Simpson checked out Walking Mussel believing it to be easier than 8b+ i.e 8b.
Earlier on there was drama on Mayfair wall when Tommy pulled a sizeable amount of rock off Rupture. The folk below dodged it well, could of been nasty!! Tommy hurt his leg and cut his hand. He was taken to hospital in an ambulance but he's ok if a bit stitched up. Good effort to everyone at the crag who helped out. Here is the hero:

Get well soon mate!