BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Friday 21 September 2012

Redpointsss!

I've had 4 days of redpoints on my pigeons route now. It's been going pretty well and i got the last hold before the top on my best go. I've definitely got fitter and stronger on it. It's no hardship trying the route as the top sequence is so brilliant. I still buzz off the crux sequence, it's not your average limestone route. Conditions have been great but alas the route was wet when i went down today. My only worry about getting this done is the seepage and next week doesn't look too great either. All i can do is keep strong and get on it when i can.
Yesterday i walked into the Diamond at 8am with Pete R and Tommy. I was keen to get some footage of Pete on his mega project by the Brute. It was predictably greasy with it being so early but Pete meticulously chalked up the holds and started redpoints. It really is a incredible, intense piece of climbing. Halfway up the jugs arrive but it's a long way to the top. I got a rope up The Brute extension (another amazing project- best 8b in Britain with another one on top). I was hanging out quite far filming Pete at the bottom so had to prod the crag horizontally with my clipstick to stop me swinging round continuously. We got stuck on the ledges at high tide for what seemed like an eternity. Dave Redpath had joined us, he dropped the last move of Skip on his first redpoint but bagged it just before dark. Tommy was figuring out Robinson Cruiser and Pete had some more redpoints. A long day at the crag and i daresay probably the only time i'll walk in and walk out 12 hours later! Pete Harrison rebolted The Sting 7c+ a few weeks ago and its reportedly excellent.
Tommy on Robinson 8a:

Pete with his proj behind him:


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