BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Sunday 4 November 2012

Lightweight 2nd ascent

Me and Dan went up to Craig Pont-y-Pant (aka Rhiw Goch) yesterday for some steep board style action. I was trying Mules sitter to Ride the Wild Smurf which goes at 7c+. The crux is the first move which is a nails violent slap into a backhand off a sharp crimp. I've got a sequence on the rest of it but the first move is desperate and i didn't manage it. Back to linking 'tricky moves' for me i think. Hard moves still feel hard! Dan was trying Lightweight which is a 8a variation on Poppy's Move. Lightweight was actually done after Poppy's and in truth is the true line as it's the easiest way to climb it. It utilises a small sharp crimp which Floppy missed when he did Poppy's. Poppy's is essentially an eliminate now. Despite the good forecast the showers kept stopping play frustratingly but Dan kept psyched and finally hit the right bit of the lip and held the swing. The topout was wet and slimey but he flopped onto the top.
Pics:

Vid:


Barrows did Halfway House and Daisy From Concrete in the Cave. We both reckon Halfway could be 7c+ now with paddage. I believe Nodder also thinks that might be the case.

No comments: