BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Sunday, 27 January 2013

Training Life

I haven't blogged much of late - i haven't been climbing outside much and there has been nothing newsworthy to report. I'm pretty pleased with myself however as i've finally managed to get in the training groove. I always doubted whether i could curtail my rock obsession in the short term to get some bigger gains in the long term. The weather was terrible in December so there wasn't much of a decision to be made. My form hit a big low - a combination of not doing much and hitting the dreaded 12 stone mark- over half a stone up on Summer. Some people panic when they get over there fighting weight and immediately act to do something about it. At this time of year i couldn't care less and the sensible strategy for me seemed to be train heavy then slim down in route season. I wasn't climbing on rock much anyway so didn't need to be on top form and if i could get strong at this weight the eventual weight loss would surely have a greater impact. After a few demoralising board sessions my form started to improve. Ben Pritch had been raving about a weighted deadhang regime he had done in summer so i thought i might aswell give it a go. It only takes 30 minutes twice a week and is fairly painless. I did get stronger after a few weeks and was back up to doing some of the usual's on the board despite my obscene waistline. I'm working away now but Kendal Wall is only 45 minutes away. The training room has a 30 degree board full of wood and resin nubbins for feet. At first i was a bit dismissive of it but after climbing on it i reckon it's perfect training for British lime. So my immediate future looks to be an indoor one while i sit the winter out and hopefully get some spondoolees in. As long as injuries keep away i should be in form come the Spring. I have been outside a few times ticking a 7b+ and 7c link on the Box that i'd never done. Today we glued the Rockatrocity foothold back on so if the resin does it's job it should be there for many moons to come.

So i doubt they'll be much acitivity on the blog until warmer times when we can go all down to this amazing place:

Wednesday, 2 January 2013

Ten of The Best

Bouldering on the Great Orme has been made famous by the often maligned Parisellas Cave. The Cave is an important and popular venue (people don't travel hours to get here for nothing) but there are plenty of gems on the Orme that i think are often overlooked. Most of these have better rock and are more aesthetically pleasing than Parisellas. I went out to the high sunny walls crag yesterday to try this - A superb old school wall on brilliant limestone that has never seen any attention. I thought it would be good to do a ten of the best list of none Cave problems to hopefully inspire people to broaden their horizons!

Tramps Tea Party, 7c+, Elephants Cave
I've blogged about this quite a bit recently so won't say too much. A good, funky addition. Had two repeats already and a downgrade!

Swing of Fire, 7b, Breck Road
A superb and radical limestone boulder problem. A massive roof is crossed using an undercut at the back before the frustrating and brilliant 'swing' move. Seems unlikely for the grade:

Bellpig, 7c, Split Infinity
Unlikely and very satisfying when you hit every slap. There's more to limestone than just pulling down!
At 1:19:

Snout,7c,Norman's Wisdom
A powerful line through a steep roof that still hasn't seen many repeats. When Danny C was still a rock climber.

Ain't No Party Like a Pill Box Party,7a+,Pill Box Wall
Jump start then lovely limestone holds direct up the steep wall. Climb up to easy ground and jumpy onto the box for the full tick. Good fun from the links too.
At 1:28:

Where's My Hippo?,7a,Pill Box Area
A really satisfying 7a that was rediscovered by rediscoverer Ben Farley. Some lovely holds.

Fourteen Years Later, 7c?, Pigeons Beach
A true board style problem with some great powerful climbing and a top out to boot. Worth the effort! Conditions dependent and tidal.


Flashpoint,7b+, Sea View Walls
Probably the best new problem i've done. High overhanging wall with jug, tufa and committing finish. Would have a permanent queue if was roadside and perma dry. Major flaw - needs a dry spell. Perhaps the best problem on the Orme?

The Spray,8a,West Shore
Really THE grade 8 bloc of the Orme. Impressive short, pure line on a freestanding boulder. Extremely tensiony and burly first move. FA by the Mule when he was going really well and potentially 8a+. Proper bouldering, 3 moves. Really deserves the attention of some beasts:

Silence of The Trams,7b, High West Shore
Located on the sunny walls above the road on the back of the Orme this was recently put up by Ben Farley. Different from the other problems on the list as it is slightly on the other side of vertical and old school in style. Essentially one move off a piss poor (but sublime) sloper. Perhaps 7a+ (?) but would undoubtedly feel harder in summer.

Nicest hold?

Thanks to NWB for some of the pics.