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Tuesday, 30 July 2013

Best Roof Climb in the UK?

Today Pete Robins  completed his latest project and this one is potentially the best yet.  Pete's latest creation is the first (and likely last) breach of the massive flat roof down Pigeon's Cave.  Pete (and everyone else) had always gazed up and wondered about the big unclimbed roof above Cat Amongst the Pigeons/Felaltio Nelson.  It looked amazing but would it be possible? On a miserable February day Pete abbed off the top and started cleaning and bolting the line. 
It looked ridiculous, had he bitten off more than he could chew this time?  He had a few dabbles on it but got stuck into Pump up the Jam which went down after a mini seige.  Pete's attention then turned to his mega roof project, he soon got all the moves and was pulling out some good links.  He was starting the route up Stiff Upper Lip which was higher quality and added more amazing roof climbing.  Just before the crux of Stiff, the route branches off left and follows a rampline all the way to the lip. It was immediately apparent that this route fitted Pete like a glove- whereas in years gone by he was a vert slatemaster these days he is definitely king of the roof.  Lots of heel hooks and heel clamps played to his strengths perfectly and he made fast progress.  Last week he made it to the final moves but fell moving his feet round the lip.  Today the conditions were amazing and he despatched first redpoint.  The route tops out onto a ledge so has a satisfying finish.  It certainly is a unique route, it is a roof for 15 metres or so and the holds and moves are amazing.  Certainly one of the best hard routes in the UK. The route is called Dark Energy and he's given it 8c+, i got the ascent on camera so hopefully when the footage is released it will inspire some beasts to give it a go.

Some video stills:

Monday, 29 July 2013

The Heel Hook Look 2nd ascent

Pete Robins has made the 2nd ascent of Rob Lamey's super deep water solo on The Little Orme.  Rob climbed his route (after plenty of splashdowns) in 2007 and it hasn't really been on anyones radar since then.  Pete had the route in the back of his mind and the warm dry conditions made the proposition even more tempting.  Heel Hook Look is accessed by the beach from Craig-y-Don.  The route starts on the last ledge systems and requires a high tide.  Because it's a traverse (well up until the last few moves) it stays at a friendly height above the sea.  Pete raced along to a resting position on his first sesh just over a week ago but didn't realise that the route went up from there and was falling trying to make some desperate moves left.  He returned on Saturday and with the knowledge of where the route topped out he managed to avoid the dip into the briney.  He raved about the route, the DWS crowd should check it out.  There is a 6c/+ which tops out from the last jugs on HHL.

Here is the vid of the FA from a few years ago:

Pic of Pete Harrison on the start:

I got some nice footage of Pete doing it, i'll probably stick it in my film.
My problem Flashpoint filmed during the dry spell:

Some Clwyd footage including Mule on his dinbren 8b:

There hasn't been much of a scene on the sport crags yet this year.  It's been pretty shit conditions during the heatwave but the crowds have been strangely absent this year.  Diamond season is just round the corner so maybe they're all training for that!

Tuesday, 2 July 2013

Follow Your Heart

Pigeon's is the IN crag of the year.  New projects are appearing every week and plenty of people are getting down to the beach.  Since ticking the S crack Pete has teamed up with Ben Bransby and the pair have been helping the crag dry up with a shovel and bolting.  Pete has two new projects, one will be phenomenal when it goes and the other is pretty amazing too.  Ben got in on the act by bolting a project that we'd all seen the potential for.  It looked like you could get into Follow the Prof (an amazing steep 7c+) by starting up Stiff Upper Lip and traversing right past some slots.  Ben put in a hard shift and bolted it up giving it an independent start in the process.  Today was pretty wet and horrible and hence the conditions were even shitter than normal down there.  First redpoint Ben made it through the crux move but made an error by clipping the next bolt and powering himself out in the process.  Next go he made it into Prof and as he shook out before the mega last move me and Pete thought it was a formality as he had onsighted Prof recently.  He set up for the move and it didn't feel right so back down to the jugs he came.  After more shakes he slapped a crimp below the top but it was wet and the elbows came out.  He had the top of the crag in his hand but it wasn't quite over.  Sure enough he clipped the chain and we all let out a sigh of relief.  He's called it Follow your Heart (Follow Prof link, heart shaped jug on prof) and he reckons 8a+.  It's a good job it wasn't much harder given the horrendous conditions but then again the guys a rockstar so it probably wouldn't have mattered.

Film grabs: